Gourmet, May 2006

It takes a light touch to roll this delicate dough thin enough to make the straws. An alternative is to make coins: shape the dough into a 1-inch-thick log, roll in poppy seeds and chill, then slice 1/4 inch thick and bake for 15 minutes, or until crisp.

4-1/2 ounces Maytag or other sharp blue cheese ( 1/2 cup packed)	1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour	1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons cornstarch	3/4 teaspoon poppy seeds
2-1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

In a food processor, combine the blue cheese, flour, cornstarch, butter, salt and pepper and pulse until the dough just comes together. Transfer the dough to a sheet of plastic wrap and shape it into a 4-inch disk; wrap and refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour, or for up to 1 day.

Preheat the oven to 375°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. On a well floured surface, roll out the dough to a 12-by-6-inch rectangle about 1/8 inch thick. Sprinkle the poppy seeds over the dough and press lightly to help them adhere. Cut the dough into 6-by- 1/2 -inch strips and transfer them to the baking sheet; twist the ends in opposite directions to make spirals. Bake the cheese straws for about 15 minutes, or until crisp and brown. Let the straws cool on the baking sheet before serving.

Nadia started making this dip—one of her mother's standards—as a student, because the ingredients are very inexpensive. She still prepares it, especially for big parties, because it's easy and unusual.

2 pounds carrots, cut into 3-inch lengths	1 tablespoon honey (optional)	Salt
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil	1 1/4 teaspoons harissa or other chili paste	1/4 pound feta cheese, crumbled (about 1 cup)
1/4 cup red wine vinegar	1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin or caraway	3 pitted black olives
3 garlic cloves, minced	1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the carrots and cook over moderately high heat until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain.

Transfer the carrots to a food processor. Add the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, honey, harissa, cumin and ginger and process to a smooth puree. Season the dip with salt.

Scrape the dip onto a platter or into a bowl. Scatter the feta cheese and olives on top and serve.

MAKE AHEAD: The dip can be refrigerated for 2 days. Serve at room temperature.

Cooking Club Tip: Serve this dip with crackers or make your own pita chips: Split 8 pita pockets into two rounds. Brush the rough sides of the rounds with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Stack the rounds and cut them into 8 wedges. Spread the pita in an even layer on large a baking sheet. Toast them in a 350º oven for about 10 minutes, or until crisp and golden. Turn the baking sheet halfway through baking to help them brown evenly.

1 large red bell pepper--stemmed, seeded, de-ribbed and cut into 1-inch pieces	1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup water	1 cup all-purpose flour
2 garlic cloves, very finely chopped	4 large eggs
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces	1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese
3/4 teaspoon salt	Pinch of cayenne pepper

In a food processor, puree the red bell pepper with the water and garlic until the mixture is as smooth as possible, about 2 minutes. Strain the pepper puree through a fine sieve set over a measuring cup, pressing hard on the solids with the back of a spoon to extract as much of the pepper juice as possible; you should have 1 cup. Stir in a little more water if necessary.

Transfer the red pepper juice to a medium saucepan. Add the butter, salt and pepper and cook over moderately high heat until the butter melts. Add the flour all at once and beat with a wooden spoon until the dough pulls away from the side of the pan and forms a smooth, shiny ball on the spoon. Scrape the dough into a bowl. Using an electric mixer at medium speed, beat in the eggs, 1 at a time, beating well between additions. Beat in the Pecorino Romano and cayenne.

Drop rounded teaspoons of the dough about 1 inch apart onto the prepared baking sheets. Bake the gougères on the upper and middle racks of the oven for about 20 minutes, or until puffed and browned; shift the baking sheets from top to bottom and back to front halfway through baking. Serve the gougères hot, warm or at room temperature.

MAKE AHEAD The gougères can be made up to 1 day ahead and stored in an airtight container. Rewarm in a 350° oven before serving.

Cooking Club Tip: If you use two different kinds of baking sheets when making this recipe, check that the gougères bake at the same rate. To help achieve even baking, consider investing in a pair of Silpats, reusable silicone pan liners.